Voices

November 21 [2025]

Cafe LOHE
Kie Mori

From in front of Osaka Station, we present the “¥10,000 coffee” to the world.  Cafe “LOHE” spreads a new culture alongside VS.

“LOHE”, the cafe on the ground floor of VS.  Since opening, its “¥10,000 cup of coffee” has consistently grabbed media attention.  Distinct from traditional cafes where people drop in for “a quick cup of coffee,” its stance of introducing the world to new ways of enjoying coffee aligns perfectly with VS.’s role as a cultural apparatus.  We spoke with barista Kie Mori, who takes charge of everything from the shop’s launch to daily flavor adjustments, to unravel the story behind the “¥10,000” price tag.

“Coffee for Birthdays”
The key player in creating special moments

Cafe LOHE Kie Mori
Kie Mori

The information provided when I was approached was: “in front of Osaka Station,” “a corner of a park,” “a standalone building, not a tenant within a building,” and “ with design supervision by Tadao Ando.” I had been wanting to share Japan’s top-tier coffee with the world, and VS., being a truly one-of-a-kind venue, was perfectly suited for that goal. Also, with the significant increase in international visitors over the past few years, I believe the concept of “coffee as the destination of the journey” had become clearly defined.

Basic coffee starts at 800 yen, while premium offerings range from 3,000 yen to 5,000 yen and 10,000 yen. Beans in the 5,000 to 10,000 yen class are of the caliber used in world barista championships. These are rare beans meticulously crafted through extensive effort, seldom available commercially, and not easily accessible. By creating a place where you can enjoy such beans “whenever you visit,” we aim to open up a new world of coffee to a diverse range of people.

Many customers come from places like Tokyo specifically for our ¥10,000 coffee. Ones priced between ¥3,000 and ¥5,000 are popular with international visitors. It seems they want to treat themselves to something special while traveling.

We also have repeat customers. For example, a couple who first visited, liked it, and then returned with their son. Another customer chose our cafe as a birthday gift from mother to daughter. And there’s the person who, after dining nearby with their mother, made a special trip just for the two of them to enjoy coffee afterward. Since then, whenever they meet, they arrange to meet here. Perhaps we’ve become a place for those “slightly special moments.”

It is true, it might be similar to the world of rare wines. But the price of the “world’s best wine” has no ceiling. With coffee, though, you can taste the “world’s best” for just 10,000 yen! (laughs)

The role of the barista differs significantly from a sommelier. With coffee, even the finest beans lose their value if the barista doesn’t brew them properly. Every single day, we taste and make adjustments throughout the day, continually refining our skills to ensure consistently great coffee.

Even if we brew the perfect cup, simply serving it silently would end with just a simple “It is delicious.” Much like French cuisine, by presenting it ourselves – explaining “This is the flavor profile” or “It transforms in your mouth with the temperature” – our guests become more attuned to capturing the taste themselves. In that sense, coffee is truly about the people.

Our shop’s theme is “Less is more.”  This philosophy is not about mere reduction, but about finding richness in carefully selected essentials. By meticulously curating everything – from our menu and space down to each vessel – we aim to offer something that is both minimal and at its brightest.

New possibilities unfold
from the collaboration with VS.

Cafe LOHE Kie Mori
Kie Mori

Instead of offering other drinks, we focus solely on coffee and use coffee cocktails to add depth to our menu. By starting with truly excellent coffee, we can expand its possibilities with minimal sugar and quality spirits, without masking its bitterness with sweetness. The possibilities for combinations are endless, which allows us to express our originality.”

It was not until we started collaborating that I truly felt the meaning of opening a cafe at this location. The first time we formally created a collaboration menu was for the “Tadao Ando Exhibition.” We went through a lot of trial and error in development – searching for ingredients that complemented the coffee, finding the right balance to blend coffee with green apples. Thanks to that, many fans of Mr. Ando also visited us. Since there are not many places where you can enjoy a cafe experience within a building designed by Mr. Ando, some people come specifically for that purpose.

For the subsequent Taiwan exhibition, we used pineapple, and for the Ryuichi Sakamoto exhibition, we served “Croque Monsieur” from a renowned restaurant beloved by Mr. Sakamoto. We definitely want to continue these kinds of collaborations going forward.

At LOHE, the only food we offered was sweets, but many customers have been asking for a light bite. So, we added toast to the menu – a cheese toast made with toasted country bread topped with high-quality Gruyère. If we are serious about coffee, we cannot help but be particular about everything we serve.

The pink we incorporate into LOHE’s cups and other items is inspired by the coffee cherry -the fruit of the coffee plant. When I first discovered specialty coffee, its bright, clean acidity made me realize, ‘Coffee really is a fruit!’ That sense of surprise is reflected in our theme color. If we could spread this color from the green park in front of Osaka Station out to the world… it really opens up a lot of possibilities.

“It is our responsibility to serve the best possible coffee with the beans we receive.” When the beans change, the extraction has to change too – there is no such thing as “this is set in stone.” Bean aging, the amount of ground coffee, and the water temperature – all of these are continually adjusted as the day’s temperature and weather change, and as the machine’s temperature shifts even during operating hours.
The pink cup was custom-made by ceramic artist Yumiko Iihoshi, whom Mori had previously worked under as an apprentice. She also searched extensively for Edo Kiriko glasses in this color.
Iced coffee served in a Burgundy-style glass that captures the aroma – another reflection of coffee’s similarity to wine.
The cafe’s theme, “Less is more,” is a phrase by Mies van der Rohe, one of the three great masters of modern architecture, and also inspired the cafe’s name.
“In the future, I would like to try ‘Japanese-style LOHE.’ I would love to pair light Japanese sweets with clean, bright coffee. Coffee cocktails made with sake or shochu would be nice too, right?”
”We have received offers to open a second location, but for now, we cannot maintain the same quality elsewhere. Together with its space, LOHE is made possible by VS.”